OIL FILTER HEAT SINK - HEAT SINK


Oil Filter Heat Sink - Sand Filter Septic.



Oil Filter Heat Sink





oil filter heat sink






    oil filter
  • a filter that removes impurities from the oil used to lubricate an internal-combustion engine

  • An oil filter is a filter to remove contaminants from engine oil, transmission oil, lubricating oil, or hydraulic oil. Oil filters are used in many different types of hydraulic machinery.

  • A cartridge-filled canister placed in an engines lubricating system to strain dirt and abrasive materials out of the oil.





    heat sink
  • A device or substance for absorbing excessive or unwanted heat

  • a metal conductor specially designed to conduct (and radiate) heat

  • A heat sink is a term for a component or assembly that transfers heat generated within a solid material to a fluid medium, such as air or a liquid. Examples of heat sinks are the heat exchangers used in refrigeration and air conditioning systems and the radiator (also a heat exchanger) in a car.

  • A mass of metal attached to a chip carrier or socket for the purpose of dissipating heat.











oil filter heat sink - AMD Socket




AMD Socket AM3/AM2+/AM2/1207/939/940/754 Copper Base/Aluminum Heat Sink & 2.75" Fan w/Copper Heatpipes & 4-Pin Connector


AMD Socket AM3/AM2+/AM2/1207/939/940/754 Copper Base/Aluminum Heat Sink & 2.75" Fan w/Copper Heatpipes & 4-Pin Connector



Keep your AMD CPU cool! This AMD Socket Heat Sink and Fan features an aluminum heat sink with a copper base and a 2.75-inch fan! Two copper heatpipes are built into the heat sink. Plus, it supports AMD Phenom II X6 Socket AM3, AM2+, AM2, 1207, 939, 940 and 754 processors up to 3.3 GHz! Simply remove the old heat sink and install the cooler on top of the CPU! Keep your system in top condition and maximize the life of your CPU with the AMD Socket Copper Core/Aluminum Heat Sink and Fan!

NOTE: THIS FAN IS NOT MANUFACTURED BY AMD










78% (12)





W. Youngers Export Stout (1897) 24 hours arter pitching the yeast.




W. Youngers Export Stout (1897) 24 hours arter pitching the yeast.





I am brewing up some Youngers export stout from a 1897 recipe.
I have made this brew from barley malt fuggles hops English ale yeast and water.
I added 3 chopped up pieces of root liquorice to the boil.

This is my first attempt at brewing beer from raw malt.
The process of extracting the fermentable sugars or wort takes just over 3 hours.
This process is called mashing, which is basically mixing hot water with your malt, you want to end up with a stiff mash for this beer, this should be of the consistency of thick porridge.
You do not want the grains floating about in the water.
You need to get your mash to 66 degC and hold it at that temperature for 3 hours.
This is done in your 'Mash tun' you can make your own from a cool box by fitting a drain tap and a false bottom.
The reason for this process is to allow the enzymes in the malt to get to work on the starch in the malt and convert it to fermentable sugars and non fermentable sugars.
After 3 hours you drain off your wort, and then ringe your bed of malt with hot water at 77 Deg C, this is called sparging what you are doing is washing out any remaining sugars from the bed of malt, you do this until the specific gravity of the liquid running out has dropped to a certain level.
You then need to boil your wort in a large pan that will give you room for the wort to foam up a bit.
When your wort has reached a good rolling boil you add your hops.
You need to keep an eye on your pot here as the wort can froth up, don’t back off the heat squirt the froth with a trigger gun filed with cold boiled water.
This recipe calls for a 1 1/2 hour boil.
The boiling process sterilises your wort, it also drives of unwanted substances from it.
Proteins that would can make your beer cloudy will group together and drop out of suspension.
The action of boiling the hops extracts the oils that flavour and preserve the beer.

When the foil is over you need to cool down the wort as fast as you can, plunging the pan an a sink of cold water works well.
this rapid cooling causes allot of particles that you don’t want in your beer to drop out of suspension.
You need to cool your wort to 20 deg C

The next step is to drain off the boiling pan, you want to try to leave all the hops behind and any sludge or turb.
If you have a proper boiler with a false bottom, the spent hops act as a filter bed.
I siphoned off the wort through a 180 micron paint filter.
Next you pour from a height your wort in to your fermenting vessel, this is to aerate your wort, the yeast needs oxygen at the early stages of fermentation.
Now you add or 'pitch' your yeast, and leave it to ferment for up to 2 weeks at 18- 20 DegC.
Half way through it is well worth 'dropping' the fermenting beer.
this is transferring the beer from one vessel to another, leaving behind any sludge on the bottom of the fermentor. This also mixes the yeast with the beer adds oxygen and further clarifies the beer.

When fermenting is complete the beer is run off in to a suitable container, further dry hopps are added. The beer needs to mature for 5-6 months. Then it can be bottled and drunk.

The recipe for William Youngers Export stout.Original Gravity 67

For one UK imperial gallon.

2 lb 13 0z Pale malt
2.8 oz Crystal malt
2oz Black malt
1 1/3 oz Fuggles hops + 1/4 oz for dry hopping.












rusty heat sink




rusty heat sink





Metal comb heat sink from something.

Builder's Resources is a San Francisco construction material recycling shop similar to Urban Ore in Berkeley. I was there for some used windows and looked at their other stuff, too.









oil filter heat sink







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